1.5 Jahres
We recently reached the eighteen month mark as residents of Vienna, Austria and I have some thoughts. Where has the time gone? No really, where? I am keenly aware of just how cliche that statement is but I am choosing to write it anyhow. Here we are. One and a half years of living abroad. On another continent. Not as a family of six. In an apartment. As urban dwellers, far away from American suburbia. With no vehicle, unable to speak the language and only now beginning to comprehend the Austrian culture. What an incredible journey it has been.
In light of that journey let me provide a bit of an update on where we're at now, beginning with our youngest Thing. In approximately eight days he will be finished with his high school education. That very same day he will be on a plane to Nairobi, Kenya to spend three weeks as a summer camp counselor with Blue Sky. Upon his return his season with Austria 13, a semi professional football club, will kick off. In the midst of traveling and training and graduating his next immediate goal is to secure employment here. He will continue with his German lessons, B1 at the same language school, Pizzera Sprachakedemie, starting in September and at some point, sooner rather than later, he will be required to take a language exam in order to renew our residency visas. To think of all that man child has accomplished in our short time here is quite exhausting. In addition, this summer has been filled with jaunts to the Alte Donau, a lake formed from the Danube River, to jump off bridges and rope swings and play beach volleyball. There was a church football tournament in which our church participated and Thing 4 played six or seven matches in the span of an afternoon, on a day in which the thermometer read 36 degrees Celsius. That was certainly fun to watch. He has also been volunteering in the nursery at church and has done some babysitting as well. All that to say his social calendar remains full, no cause for worry there.
Husband Jared has recently been doing some work related traveling to Switzerland, mostly to Zurich. I've been focusing a bit more on my writing, editing the newsletter for U!Shine Vienna and trying my best to stay connected and engaged in our daughters' lives from another continent. Sometimes the miles are tangible and other times it's as if they're sitting across from me in a cafe and we're sharing all the little things that took place that very day. Other than that, our calendar and lives here seem to be centered around the seasons and slowness. Summer equals outdoor activities, hiking, heurigers, public pools, festivals and any location that is near the water. We're still exploring new running trails at the Prater and attempting to maintain that healthy and active lifestyle. And as has been the norm this year, we're preparing the next itinerary for our house guests in September. Mema and GPA will be flying to Europe for the first time and their schedule includes an excursion to Oslo, Norway.
Perhaps the latest news comes with our visa renewal. Come January, our two year visa expires and thus the process has begun. We've been informed that our renewal, well at least mine and Thing 4's, require language exams. Ahem. Did you read that sentence in the first paragraph? The one where I admitted to not speaking German, not understanding most of what I hear and definitely not able to write a complete and grammatically correct sentence. Yes, that's the one. OK, we can move on. Thankfully we do have the help of a lawyer whom is explaining the system, magistrate and ministry requirements that we weren't aware of. Now all there is to do is find all of our "important" documents, have them apostilled, or verified Stateside, and then hand deliver them to the ministry office here. I can't imagine what could possibly go wrong. Insert sarcasm. Nonetheless, the process and legality of it all is beyond my reach so I will comply and let the chips fall where they may. What I have jokingly told my girls is that if I am kicked out of the country they will have to send me to TN, where they might just have themselves a new roommate! Wouldn't that be fun?
Let's see, what else? The three of us have become more than accustomed to our lazy Sunday mornings. I am certain I have mentioned this before but the city doesn't seem to wake until well after noon on Sunday and I kind of love it. We don't set an alarm. Coffee is sipped slowly on the terrace. Reggae is streamed through the speaker, also known as The Black Mamba, and all is right with the world. There are no expectations and I am in complete agreement with the Viennese that this is the very best way to spend a day. After a year and a half of living in this city, I do believe I am learning my way around. Streets are becoming familiar, I am not walking staring down at Google maps on my phone, there are places, my regulars as I like to call them, that I don't even need directions for. The tried and true. Or now, if someone references one of the twenty two districts I most often have at the least, a vague idea as to the location. That is an accomplishment for this directionally challenged person. Another feat, listening to a music concert outside of the stadium, intentionally this time. Phil Collins was playing at Ernst Happel Stadion and we three ventured out with our blanket to listen to the show. Mike and the Machines opened, we caught their last song and then sat in lounge chairs with strangers and waited for the magic. It was the best and the least expensive concert we've ever "attended". Another win for Vienna! We also know the difference between the Alte Donau, the Donau Kanal, and the Old and New Donau. Yes, it took some time and yes I had to do a bit of research but it was well worth it. When talking water and summertime fun knowing the difference between the bodies of water here in the city is essential. Another box checked!
As an aside, a list was published on one of my favorite Vienna blogs and information sources, Vienna Wurstelstand. The list was comprised of "beginner mistakes" that those living in Vienna for more than a year are still making. I looked through the list and found myself humbled. Or maybe encouraged. Either way, I am making those mistakes and I am over eighteen months in. First offense: not carrying cash. For such an international city there are still a multitude of cafes, restaurants and even stores that are cash only. Another, not making reservations. Yes, it is mandatory at most places. But once you have a table it's yours for as long as you'd like. Saturdays are fairly popular shopping days, not just for groceries but in general. I do try and avoid shopping at all cost on this day and yet there are times I have been found on Mariahilferstrasse on a Saturday questioning my sanity. Because I know better. Because I actually live here. And lastly, because language is a consistent and often talked about subject around here, not using proper nouns, as in Sie and du. Formal and informal. I have asked on numerous occasions the expectation around this and the rule. Much to my dismay, I have not once received the same answer. Ever. Depending on whom I've asked, the context, the relationship with the person you're addressing, etc., what I do hear is "you just have to know". Well, it's a wonder I am not understanding German by now!
For those interested, here is an update around our community. I shared a bit about Thing 4's social circle and now I will touch on ours. This too, seems to be a popular question for us. Have you found community? Do you feel settled? Are you putting down roots? What a conundrum. At least for me, for our family. Putting down roots is first, such an American term, and secondly, is it necessary to put down roots to feel settled in a location? I, for one, do not think so. Relationships are complicated in such an international community and among expats in general. There are always people leaving, new ones arriving and then all of us here living in the in between, doing our best to acclimate and learn and forge ahead. So, the simple answer is, yes, we do have community here in Vienna. We have friends and acquaintances and fellow sojourners. People grace our home and join us at the table. Others we wave and blow kisses to in passing at church. Neighbors share common greetings in our building and on the lift. I do believe that the employees at our local Billa recognize my face now. Again, we exchange halo's, ciao's, aufwiedersehen's all that jazz. Sometimes, on the Ubahn, I'll make eye contact with someone and then if it's an exceptionally good day, I'll receive a nod or the faintest smile in return. I am not discouraged. At least not usually. I will not be deterred in my effort to smile and make eye contact, beyond the uncomfortable staring that is so common.
Since I am sitting here in my favorite Parisian cafe in the city, Paremi, I will take a brief moment to comment on the coffee culture once again. I am finding now, after a year and a half, that I prefer my coffee in a proper cup. No on the go coffees. The culture here is such that one is encouraged to sit, enjoy the atmosphere, the time with which your drink was prepared and so on. Surely you're understanding where I'm going with this, right? Cafe culture. It's a thing here. I can't overstate the seriousness of this. Laugh if you want, but I find myself scoffing at the thought of having to drink my coffee on the go. Sure, there are times when take away is warranted and necessary. But if I have the choice of taking a pause and drinking my melange, slowly, savoring the real cream that was frothed, then I will. Everyday and twice on Sundays.
As I was reviewing my thoughts here I realized this post wouldn't be complete without Husband Jared's and Thing 4's reflections. Although, when I asked Thing 4 his thoughts, struggles, and the such after eighteen months of living here, he paused and then matter of factly, shook his head and said, "no, I'm good". No surprises, shocking behavior or otherwise. He apparently is acclimated and would most likely look to Americans' behavior as odd and hard to understand now. I get it. Really, I do. Don't be fooled, though, his transition has not been without speed bumps and hurdles and disappointments. Those are his to share, mostly, so let us carry on. Husband Jared was in agreement with a majority of what I wrote. His daily life here is vastly different from mine and so are his interactions. First, he commutes on the UBahn. That is a culture all it's own; The unspoken rules of public transport. Also, he deals with tourists and internationals everyday in his store, negotiating cultural differences amongst his colleagues and customers, not to mention language barriers, coupled with the fact that people, universally are quite serious about their Apple products. If you need to ask then I am not the one you should be asking. So there are a few of his hurdles he has overcome, successfully if you ask me. After his year and a half here there are both positives and negatives, as there would be anywhere. What I do hear on repeat from him is that life here is so good. So slow and intentional. The mandatory five weeks of holiday and thirteen public holidays surely play into that mindset.
I was recently asked how I felt about the possibility of having to leave if our visa renewal was denied and I surprised myself with my response. I don't think I'm ready to leave. Maybe not so shocking to you all, but for me it was. Before I learned that we were not on contract and had an open ended agreement, the story I was telling myself was such that two years isn't that long, I can do that and then we'll be on to the next. Now, with that duration being a real possibility and the end in sight, I am torn. Not ready to leave Europe, this lifestyle that has marked us in the best ways, and saddened at the potential goodbyes and see you laters that would come with leaving this place.
My summary then is this, one and a half years in and I am grateful for this city and our experiences thus far. We're not living some highlight reel or fairy tale life here by any means, but the living is good, that is certain. Please know, everyday presents its own challenges and the like, and the hope is that each are taken in stride, some nugget of truth is gleaned and we can walk away having learned something about ourselves and perhaps others as well. And in light of all this, who's to say that our opinions and feelings on the topic won't change tomorrow or the day after? No one. We are fickle beings. For now, I'll give it my all and settle further in here, knowing it could all change tomorrow.
Here's to you Wien, I love you and all your complicated Zeug, "stuff".
In light of that journey let me provide a bit of an update on where we're at now, beginning with our youngest Thing. In approximately eight days he will be finished with his high school education. That very same day he will be on a plane to Nairobi, Kenya to spend three weeks as a summer camp counselor with Blue Sky. Upon his return his season with Austria 13, a semi professional football club, will kick off. In the midst of traveling and training and graduating his next immediate goal is to secure employment here. He will continue with his German lessons, B1 at the same language school, Pizzera Sprachakedemie, starting in September and at some point, sooner rather than later, he will be required to take a language exam in order to renew our residency visas. To think of all that man child has accomplished in our short time here is quite exhausting. In addition, this summer has been filled with jaunts to the Alte Donau, a lake formed from the Danube River, to jump off bridges and rope swings and play beach volleyball. There was a church football tournament in which our church participated and Thing 4 played six or seven matches in the span of an afternoon, on a day in which the thermometer read 36 degrees Celsius. That was certainly fun to watch. He has also been volunteering in the nursery at church and has done some babysitting as well. All that to say his social calendar remains full, no cause for worry there.
Husband Jared has recently been doing some work related traveling to Switzerland, mostly to Zurich. I've been focusing a bit more on my writing, editing the newsletter for U!Shine Vienna and trying my best to stay connected and engaged in our daughters' lives from another continent. Sometimes the miles are tangible and other times it's as if they're sitting across from me in a cafe and we're sharing all the little things that took place that very day. Other than that, our calendar and lives here seem to be centered around the seasons and slowness. Summer equals outdoor activities, hiking, heurigers, public pools, festivals and any location that is near the water. We're still exploring new running trails at the Prater and attempting to maintain that healthy and active lifestyle. And as has been the norm this year, we're preparing the next itinerary for our house guests in September. Mema and GPA will be flying to Europe for the first time and their schedule includes an excursion to Oslo, Norway.
Perhaps the latest news comes with our visa renewal. Come January, our two year visa expires and thus the process has begun. We've been informed that our renewal, well at least mine and Thing 4's, require language exams. Ahem. Did you read that sentence in the first paragraph? The one where I admitted to not speaking German, not understanding most of what I hear and definitely not able to write a complete and grammatically correct sentence. Yes, that's the one. OK, we can move on. Thankfully we do have the help of a lawyer whom is explaining the system, magistrate and ministry requirements that we weren't aware of. Now all there is to do is find all of our "important" documents, have them apostilled, or verified Stateside, and then hand deliver them to the ministry office here. I can't imagine what could possibly go wrong. Insert sarcasm. Nonetheless, the process and legality of it all is beyond my reach so I will comply and let the chips fall where they may. What I have jokingly told my girls is that if I am kicked out of the country they will have to send me to TN, where they might just have themselves a new roommate! Wouldn't that be fun?
Let's see, what else? The three of us have become more than accustomed to our lazy Sunday mornings. I am certain I have mentioned this before but the city doesn't seem to wake until well after noon on Sunday and I kind of love it. We don't set an alarm. Coffee is sipped slowly on the terrace. Reggae is streamed through the speaker, also known as The Black Mamba, and all is right with the world. There are no expectations and I am in complete agreement with the Viennese that this is the very best way to spend a day. After a year and a half of living in this city, I do believe I am learning my way around. Streets are becoming familiar, I am not walking staring down at Google maps on my phone, there are places, my regulars as I like to call them, that I don't even need directions for. The tried and true. Or now, if someone references one of the twenty two districts I most often have at the least, a vague idea as to the location. That is an accomplishment for this directionally challenged person. Another feat, listening to a music concert outside of the stadium, intentionally this time. Phil Collins was playing at Ernst Happel Stadion and we three ventured out with our blanket to listen to the show. Mike and the Machines opened, we caught their last song and then sat in lounge chairs with strangers and waited for the magic. It was the best and the least expensive concert we've ever "attended". Another win for Vienna! We also know the difference between the Alte Donau, the Donau Kanal, and the Old and New Donau. Yes, it took some time and yes I had to do a bit of research but it was well worth it. When talking water and summertime fun knowing the difference between the bodies of water here in the city is essential. Another box checked!
As an aside, a list was published on one of my favorite Vienna blogs and information sources, Vienna Wurstelstand. The list was comprised of "beginner mistakes" that those living in Vienna for more than a year are still making. I looked through the list and found myself humbled. Or maybe encouraged. Either way, I am making those mistakes and I am over eighteen months in. First offense: not carrying cash. For such an international city there are still a multitude of cafes, restaurants and even stores that are cash only. Another, not making reservations. Yes, it is mandatory at most places. But once you have a table it's yours for as long as you'd like. Saturdays are fairly popular shopping days, not just for groceries but in general. I do try and avoid shopping at all cost on this day and yet there are times I have been found on Mariahilferstrasse on a Saturday questioning my sanity. Because I know better. Because I actually live here. And lastly, because language is a consistent and often talked about subject around here, not using proper nouns, as in Sie and du. Formal and informal. I have asked on numerous occasions the expectation around this and the rule. Much to my dismay, I have not once received the same answer. Ever. Depending on whom I've asked, the context, the relationship with the person you're addressing, etc., what I do hear is "you just have to know". Well, it's a wonder I am not understanding German by now!
For those interested, here is an update around our community. I shared a bit about Thing 4's social circle and now I will touch on ours. This too, seems to be a popular question for us. Have you found community? Do you feel settled? Are you putting down roots? What a conundrum. At least for me, for our family. Putting down roots is first, such an American term, and secondly, is it necessary to put down roots to feel settled in a location? I, for one, do not think so. Relationships are complicated in such an international community and among expats in general. There are always people leaving, new ones arriving and then all of us here living in the in between, doing our best to acclimate and learn and forge ahead. So, the simple answer is, yes, we do have community here in Vienna. We have friends and acquaintances and fellow sojourners. People grace our home and join us at the table. Others we wave and blow kisses to in passing at church. Neighbors share common greetings in our building and on the lift. I do believe that the employees at our local Billa recognize my face now. Again, we exchange halo's, ciao's, aufwiedersehen's all that jazz. Sometimes, on the Ubahn, I'll make eye contact with someone and then if it's an exceptionally good day, I'll receive a nod or the faintest smile in return. I am not discouraged. At least not usually. I will not be deterred in my effort to smile and make eye contact, beyond the uncomfortable staring that is so common.
Since I am sitting here in my favorite Parisian cafe in the city, Paremi, I will take a brief moment to comment on the coffee culture once again. I am finding now, after a year and a half, that I prefer my coffee in a proper cup. No on the go coffees. The culture here is such that one is encouraged to sit, enjoy the atmosphere, the time with which your drink was prepared and so on. Surely you're understanding where I'm going with this, right? Cafe culture. It's a thing here. I can't overstate the seriousness of this. Laugh if you want, but I find myself scoffing at the thought of having to drink my coffee on the go. Sure, there are times when take away is warranted and necessary. But if I have the choice of taking a pause and drinking my melange, slowly, savoring the real cream that was frothed, then I will. Everyday and twice on Sundays.
As I was reviewing my thoughts here I realized this post wouldn't be complete without Husband Jared's and Thing 4's reflections. Although, when I asked Thing 4 his thoughts, struggles, and the such after eighteen months of living here, he paused and then matter of factly, shook his head and said, "no, I'm good". No surprises, shocking behavior or otherwise. He apparently is acclimated and would most likely look to Americans' behavior as odd and hard to understand now. I get it. Really, I do. Don't be fooled, though, his transition has not been without speed bumps and hurdles and disappointments. Those are his to share, mostly, so let us carry on. Husband Jared was in agreement with a majority of what I wrote. His daily life here is vastly different from mine and so are his interactions. First, he commutes on the UBahn. That is a culture all it's own; The unspoken rules of public transport. Also, he deals with tourists and internationals everyday in his store, negotiating cultural differences amongst his colleagues and customers, not to mention language barriers, coupled with the fact that people, universally are quite serious about their Apple products. If you need to ask then I am not the one you should be asking. So there are a few of his hurdles he has overcome, successfully if you ask me. After his year and a half here there are both positives and negatives, as there would be anywhere. What I do hear on repeat from him is that life here is so good. So slow and intentional. The mandatory five weeks of holiday and thirteen public holidays surely play into that mindset.
I was recently asked how I felt about the possibility of having to leave if our visa renewal was denied and I surprised myself with my response. I don't think I'm ready to leave. Maybe not so shocking to you all, but for me it was. Before I learned that we were not on contract and had an open ended agreement, the story I was telling myself was such that two years isn't that long, I can do that and then we'll be on to the next. Now, with that duration being a real possibility and the end in sight, I am torn. Not ready to leave Europe, this lifestyle that has marked us in the best ways, and saddened at the potential goodbyes and see you laters that would come with leaving this place.
My summary then is this, one and a half years in and I am grateful for this city and our experiences thus far. We're not living some highlight reel or fairy tale life here by any means, but the living is good, that is certain. Please know, everyday presents its own challenges and the like, and the hope is that each are taken in stride, some nugget of truth is gleaned and we can walk away having learned something about ourselves and perhaps others as well. And in light of all this, who's to say that our opinions and feelings on the topic won't change tomorrow or the day after? No one. We are fickle beings. For now, I'll give it my all and settle further in here, knowing it could all change tomorrow.
Here's to you Wien, I love you and all your complicated Zeug, "stuff".
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