Venizia: Cars, Trains, Boats And Beyond
For the last seven years or so I have been adamant about going to Italy for my 40th birthday. It was initiated during a family dinner with one of my sister in laws who is the same age as myself. We toasted to our monumental birthday in the future and made a pact to travel together to celebrate. Well, as life would have it, children came, moves happened and the plan went by the wayside. Unintentionally of course, it just didn't seem logical or feasible when we rekindled the conversation a year ago. I was sent with well wishes from her, I think, that if I could make it I should go. Wouldn't you know it, the Things and Husband Jared surprised me with a road trip to Venice for my birthday. Yes please! Thing 3 did the planning, Thing 4 created the slide show surprise and Husband Jared funded the expedition. Thank you, thank you and thank you again.
After all the arrangements and final plans were made, such as a charming Umbrian farm house for our accommodations, we took to the road. A new one for all of us, and one that had us driving through the mountains of Austria and Italy alike. Tunnel after tunnel. It really was interesting. The tunnel system is a necessity when driving in mountainous regions and there were many 400 plus meters long, no holding your breath for those! I learned that rest stops are rest stops are rest stops, no matter where you are. Free WC's are a win and petro stations have similar junk food snacks wherever you are. Maybe the only difference here is that the rest stop restaurants were not serving greasy cheeseburgers or chicken fried steak, schnitzel and kraut were on the menu and man did it smell good! Oh, and yes, we had to pay for the WC's at said petro stations. Hmmm. Once we crossed the border into Italy we found ourselves staring out the window and craning our necks to the mountain tops with their snow covered peaks and jagged crowns. At the base and running alongside the highway was this blue-ish green water. Unlike anything we had ever seen. We assumed it was from the run off or snow melt and it sure was captivating. On to Italy with it's pricey toll road and strict speed limits. Thing 3 continued to enlighten us with such wisdom as "guess what, we're in Italy", on repeat. Yes, dear, we most certainly are.
Our AirBnB for the weekend was just outside Venice, in the charming village of Marcon. There were vineyards every which way and open fields just on the cusp of Spring. Oh, and when we arrived at our farm house there was a turquoise gate that opened to reveal the most delightful site. A true farmhouse, over 200 years old, in fact, a garden and furniture just begging us to sit under the tree for a spell, window boxes and windows with an expansive view. I was enchanted. Our hostess met us in the drive and took us on a tour, explaining how she and her husband, who are architects and designers, renovated this space and split the top floor into two apartments which they now rent out. In my mind she had already asked me to be her BFF and we were sitting at the garden table, underneath the terrace, which so happens to be right next to her green house with lovely Meyer lemon trees waiting to be brought out into the sunshine, sipping wine and sharing travel stories. Succulents draped themselves over the wooden staircase and the smell of fresh herbs filled the foyer. We walked into our apartment and the wooden floors creaked a bit, but our attention was drawn to the chilled Prosecco, fruit basket and Italian palmiers that waited for us. I really can not say enough about this quaint place. Thing 3 immediately grabbed her book and headed outside. The dog, Frida, met her there and she spent the remaining daylight engrossed in her book and thoughts. We gave this place two thumbs up for certain.
Signs seen on the road.
After traveling all day we decided to stay local for dinner on our first night. Fiorenza, our hostess, recommended her friend's restaurant nearby for the best pizza at non-tourist prices. It was definitely a local's place and we were the only English speakers in the house. A wood burning oven greeted us and I was immediately mesmerized with the action taking place around us. Fish being deboned at the table beside us, children running to and fro and waiters greeting everyone with smiles and conversation as if they were old friends. I could have spent hours people watching here. When our pizzas arrived we declared them the best pizzas we had ever eaten. Yes indeed! We rolled ourselves back to our place, but not before we sampled three desserts. Holiday eating at it's finest.
Quaint, that is the only word I can use here. Just look at the wall mounted phone, the fluted pendant lights, the old wooden bar.
Day two's agenda involved a short drive to the train station, a train into Venice and then no plans, with the exception of walking the city with all of it's hidden alleyways and bridges. Husband Jared and Thing 3 went out for breakfast, pastries from a local family bakery just up the road. I tried my hand at the kettle like coffee pot but to no avail. The pastries though, they were divine. They encountered a bit of a language barrier, thankfully sign language seems to be universal and any gaps were covered. Once on the train we glided over the water and arrived in Venice at a busy station. From there we walked. Did I mention that we walked? Over ten miles that day. From bridge to bridge. Discovering another alley way and street away from the crowds. Even to a local pitch. We think one that was affiliated with the local Catholic parish. Thing 4 quickly jumped in with boys half his size and had them all high fiving and laughing at his tricks. He amazes me with his ability to break down language barriers, insert himself into new situations and instantly become friends. We stood watching and allowed him to play for a while. I was taken with how welcoming the boys were, including one of their Dads and possibly coach? Neither one of us spoke the other's language and yet there we stood, watching and cheering and smiling. Taking it all in. More walking followed, this time to find the sea. We couldn't get there fast enough. I breathed in deep, closed my eyes and listened to the tiny waves, made mostly by the passing boats and gondolas. This, this was good for my soul. On to the attractions, St. Mark's and an "underwater" book store and the square. Our entire trip we never set foot in a museum or gift shop or even a gallery and yet our time felt full of culture and education and beauty. Every building told it's own story, every carved arch and column and architectural feat left evidence of what was, of brilliant minds and twisted theologians and religion taken to new heights. The day was encompassed all that I love about being on holiday: no plans, eating whenever we choose, no schedules, unplanned detours and exploring the unknown with my favorite people.
On our last full day in the city we had plans to visit three of Venice's islands, Murano, Burano Torcello. Thing 4 had a bit of school work to attend to and that had to be worked into our equation for the day as well. Today we decided that we should all experience the bakery first hand so the four of us enjoyed our breakfast along with fresh squeezed blood orange juice and cappuccinos at our new favorite place. Obviously a favorite of the locals too. The owners greeted each and every customer with warm smiles and how do you do's and will it be the usual?, Thing 3 and I loved every sweet second we spent here. On to our day. Murano was our first island stop, but first we had to secure our tickets on the water taxi for the day. These tickets allowed us to travel freely between the islands and back to Venice at our leisure. No gondolas or private boats for us, we stood as close as could to the side and watched the water lap around us and spray our faces when there was wake. Murano is famous for glass blowing and the small island is covered with factories and galleries. We ducked into a factory off the beaten path and watched in awe as the masters executed two of the main techniques, with an English commentary of course, and then we walked the shop that was filled with their art. It was remarkable. The jewelry, the sculptures, the intricacies that were formed with heat and glass and color. Just beautiful. Again we found alleyways and bridges and soaked in the sunshine as we walked. Did you know that DHL and UPS have boat deliveries for the island, even the post is delivered via boat. I don't know why that thought hadn't dawned on us before but we witnessed delivery day the Monday we were there and it was interesting to say the least. Our tummies were a bit rumbly and we sat at a restaurant only to get up and leave after looking through the menu, anyone else done that before? I don't think I have. Anyhow, on to the next. Husband Jared and I followed the Things as they lead us to a pizza place on the water and we sat for a spell and ate more pizza, more chips and a local beer. There was more people watching and planning for the remainder of our day and scheduling for Thing 4's class time. Then more walking, of course, and we stumbled upon a cafe with FREE WIFI, score for Thing 4. So we left him there with some cash and his computer and plans to meet up with him on our last stop in Burano. I was a tad unsure of this arrangement but all parties involved, excluding me, seemed confident and comfortable so I obliged. It was quite strange leaving him behind, although he didn't have a bad view for class.
Now Torcello. An even smaller island than Murano, at only .44 square kilometers but it is considered to be the "parent" island for Venice. There is an interesting history to the island, including black plagues and it being a popular and important trading post for Constantinople, however today it has a population of less than 100 residents, and that is including the parish priest. Needless to say we walked the span of the island, hung our feet over the canal, ran our hands over the stone of the church and attempted to visit the museums, both of which were closed. An art gallery and outdoor restaurant with a vast garden were enticing but we ventured on to Burano rather quickly after our time here. Husband Jared had us exit our water taxi one stop too early but it did afford us the opportunity to walk along the water's edge and spy on a public park on the outskirts of the island. See, a happy detour. Those tend to happen quite often when we're exploring together. Once on Burano we were on a gelato mission. No, really. We had been in Italy for over twenty four hours and we had not indulged in any gelato. Please, someone tell me what was wrong with us! With gelato in hand we sat by the canal's inlet and watched as boats came speeding in from the sea. An interesting observation occurred. In America we would see and hear the loud booming of sub woofers and such from teenage drivers, here though, that happens in speed boats with massive speakers and the younger generation making their presence known on the water ways. As we were enjoying our gelato and comparing flavors and cone choices we witnessed several of these boats go by, a taste of local culture of a different sort. I enjoyed our time by the water. The view was spectacular. Rows and rows of brightly colored houses lining the canal and competing for best in show. Peaceful and yet full of life. After strolling Burano's public square we stumbled upon a leaning tower housed within the walls of the island church. Of all the photos we took none quite captured the tilting nature of this tower. Let me just tell you, I was concerned it was set to topple over at any moment. Really. Thing 4 met us and went straight for the gelato too. We spent a bit more time here on Burano, witnessing the local scene take over once the tourists left. Seriously. One of the last boats arrived on the island and the locals returned and were out in mass. Markets were full and people were bringing in laundry, children were out on scooters, kicking the ball in the alleyways, older men walking outside for a smoke and it was all just so beautiful. Then we all stood in line to board the water taxi back to Venice.
View from the Church.
Torcello.
Canal.
Leaning tower of Burano.
Parking.
Gelato and a very excited Husband Jared.
What is it about being on the water? The feeling is otherworldly for me. When there is salty air, wind blown hair and peace that seems tangible, even if just for a moment, all seems right with the world. I stood as close to the edge as I could, once again and breathed it all in. So grateful. Once we arrived in Venice we walked. Again. This time over the Rialto Bridge and through the old market streets. An out of the way restaurant that Thing 3 had found was to be our dinner destination. Little did we know that all the locals would be there as well. Trust me when I say that this place was a hole in the wall. Not as in dirty or questionable cleanliness, but as in really, it looked as though it was carved out of the building. With standing room only and a large group standing outside at the make shift counter height bar with a bottle of wine, no less, we decided to continue our search. Which lead us to another local find. Quite surprising in fact. We ordered at the counter and rested our weary feet while waiting for our food. Our dinner did not disappoint and we walked back to the train station completely full. Again. Our walking was all part of the adventure. Every gelato and pizza stand was buzzing with activity, Thing 4 bartered for an Italia hoodie and won, Thing 3 and I questioned Husband Jared's every turn hoping that we would not be on yet another detour and locals were out walking their dogs. Then as we neared the train station we stopped to take in the city lights, reflections on the water and the beauty of it all. Another good day.
Walk to dinner through the night markets.
Venice at dusk and one of my very favorite photos from the day.
Our weary bodies fell into bed, exhausted in the very best way and fully aware that tomorrow all this would be coming to an end with the drive back to Vienna and reality. Every time I type a sentence like that the lyrics from an old song come to mind, "back to life, back to reality". Anyone else? OK, moving on. We decided to make a pit stop on our way home in Graz. It is the second largest city in Austria, after Vienna of course. Trivia fact for you. It is also on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site list. There is a castle, of course. We lunched and then headed to city centre for a walk. This time we descended into the depths of a WWII bomb shelter that was built underneath the castle. And then we rode the lift up to the top. We're no dummies. Also, our legs were tired so there's that. There was exploring to be done at the top of the hill, a spectacular view of the city and it's boundaries, a clock tower dating back to the 1300's and then stairs all the way down. We made a pit stop before piling in the car at a local coffee house. Thinking we could grab a take away cup and be on our way for a few Euro. Oh no, wouldn't you know it, Husband Jared and I found the one high-class coffee house. Proud of their roasting and beans and methods and all that. While the coffee was decent, despite the fact it cost us close to 10 Euros, they did not even have a public WC in their shop and that was most disappointing. Enough about my toilet woes. Graz ended up being the perfect detour for our road trip home. Thing 4 was able to check out the football stadium on our way out of town and then we were on the road. Where once again all seasons were experienced while driving. Snow, hail, sleet, rain and even wind. And then, sunshine. Thank you Jesus. We returned home safe and sound and that my friends concludes our road trip recap, as well as the end of my birthday celebrations. Insert sad face here.
The only photo I took while in Graz. Yes, those are the stairs we walked down.
Typical.
"Ruined" books from water damage repurposed into a stair case.
One of my very favorites.
Inconspicuous.
Inside the book store.
The Venetian Lagoon.
St. Mark's Basillica.
Iconic.
The tall blonde out there is Thing 4!
Husband Jared was enamored with this house. The door was crooked, shutters busted and all it's imperfections were clearly moving.
First espresso stop of the day. Yes please.
Gelato with a view.
On our last full day in the city we had plans to visit three of Venice's islands, Murano, Burano Torcello. Thing 4 had a bit of school work to attend to and that had to be worked into our equation for the day as well. Today we decided that we should all experience the bakery first hand so the four of us enjoyed our breakfast along with fresh squeezed blood orange juice and cappuccinos at our new favorite place. Obviously a favorite of the locals too. The owners greeted each and every customer with warm smiles and how do you do's and will it be the usual?, Thing 3 and I loved every sweet second we spent here. On to our day. Murano was our first island stop, but first we had to secure our tickets on the water taxi for the day. These tickets allowed us to travel freely between the islands and back to Venice at our leisure. No gondolas or private boats for us, we stood as close as could to the side and watched the water lap around us and spray our faces when there was wake. Murano is famous for glass blowing and the small island is covered with factories and galleries. We ducked into a factory off the beaten path and watched in awe as the masters executed two of the main techniques, with an English commentary of course, and then we walked the shop that was filled with their art. It was remarkable. The jewelry, the sculptures, the intricacies that were formed with heat and glass and color. Just beautiful. Again we found alleyways and bridges and soaked in the sunshine as we walked. Did you know that DHL and UPS have boat deliveries for the island, even the post is delivered via boat. I don't know why that thought hadn't dawned on us before but we witnessed delivery day the Monday we were there and it was interesting to say the least. Our tummies were a bit rumbly and we sat at a restaurant only to get up and leave after looking through the menu, anyone else done that before? I don't think I have. Anyhow, on to the next. Husband Jared and I followed the Things as they lead us to a pizza place on the water and we sat for a spell and ate more pizza, more chips and a local beer. There was more people watching and planning for the remainder of our day and scheduling for Thing 4's class time. Then more walking, of course, and we stumbled upon a cafe with FREE WIFI, score for Thing 4. So we left him there with some cash and his computer and plans to meet up with him on our last stop in Burano. I was a tad unsure of this arrangement but all parties involved, excluding me, seemed confident and comfortable so I obliged. It was quite strange leaving him behind, although he didn't have a bad view for class.
Why yes, Thing 4 was attempting to throw me in the canal. You know, just so he could show off his muscles. Husband Jared to the rescue!
The Grand Canal of Murano.
Glass abacus.
Lunch in Murano.
View from the Church.
Torcello.
Canal.
Leaning tower of Burano.
Parking.
Gelato and a very excited Husband Jared.
What is it about being on the water? The feeling is otherworldly for me. When there is salty air, wind blown hair and peace that seems tangible, even if just for a moment, all seems right with the world. I stood as close to the edge as I could, once again and breathed it all in. So grateful. Once we arrived in Venice we walked. Again. This time over the Rialto Bridge and through the old market streets. An out of the way restaurant that Thing 3 had found was to be our dinner destination. Little did we know that all the locals would be there as well. Trust me when I say that this place was a hole in the wall. Not as in dirty or questionable cleanliness, but as in really, it looked as though it was carved out of the building. With standing room only and a large group standing outside at the make shift counter height bar with a bottle of wine, no less, we decided to continue our search. Which lead us to another local find. Quite surprising in fact. We ordered at the counter and rested our weary feet while waiting for our food. Our dinner did not disappoint and we walked back to the train station completely full. Again. Our walking was all part of the adventure. Every gelato and pizza stand was buzzing with activity, Thing 4 bartered for an Italia hoodie and won, Thing 3 and I questioned Husband Jared's every turn hoping that we would not be on yet another detour and locals were out walking their dogs. Then as we neared the train station we stopped to take in the city lights, reflections on the water and the beauty of it all. Another good day.
Walk to dinner through the night markets.
Venice at dusk and one of my very favorite photos from the day.
Our weary bodies fell into bed, exhausted in the very best way and fully aware that tomorrow all this would be coming to an end with the drive back to Vienna and reality. Every time I type a sentence like that the lyrics from an old song come to mind, "back to life, back to reality". Anyone else? OK, moving on. We decided to make a pit stop on our way home in Graz. It is the second largest city in Austria, after Vienna of course. Trivia fact for you. It is also on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site list. There is a castle, of course. We lunched and then headed to city centre for a walk. This time we descended into the depths of a WWII bomb shelter that was built underneath the castle. And then we rode the lift up to the top. We're no dummies. Also, our legs were tired so there's that. There was exploring to be done at the top of the hill, a spectacular view of the city and it's boundaries, a clock tower dating back to the 1300's and then stairs all the way down. We made a pit stop before piling in the car at a local coffee house. Thinking we could grab a take away cup and be on our way for a few Euro. Oh no, wouldn't you know it, Husband Jared and I found the one high-class coffee house. Proud of their roasting and beans and methods and all that. While the coffee was decent, despite the fact it cost us close to 10 Euros, they did not even have a public WC in their shop and that was most disappointing. Enough about my toilet woes. Graz ended up being the perfect detour for our road trip home. Thing 4 was able to check out the football stadium on our way out of town and then we were on the road. Where once again all seasons were experienced while driving. Snow, hail, sleet, rain and even wind. And then, sunshine. Thank you Jesus. We returned home safe and sound and that my friends concludes our road trip recap, as well as the end of my birthday celebrations. Insert sad face here.
The only photo I took while in Graz. Yes, those are the stairs we walked down.
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