Hanson B&B: Open!

Breaking news:  We hosted our first official visitors here at the Hanson B&B, Vienna!  Sister Corynn's youngest sister, Callee and her best friend, Hayley, were traveling through Europe and made a pit stop here.  I could not have been more excited.  I fluffed.  Prepped the linens, wrote welcome cards and bought Manner for them.  You know, a little piece of Vienna to remember us by.  Also a favorite of Husband Jared's.

They arrived and we immediately dove into all the topics.  Travels.  Work.  Living in Vienna.  Relationships.  My Things, the four that on occasion were baby-sat by Callee.  This is my favorite.  Hearing all about the lives of others; Their struggles, highlights, the adventures and all the in-between.  I was grateful that they obliged my inquisitiveness.  There wasn't a lull in conversation or awkward silences, just a steady hum of learning about each other.   I was given the opportunity to play "guide" here in Vienna and on our first outing I managed to get us lost.  We wound up walking in a circle on our way to the Albertina and I gleaned my first lesson from Callee and Hayley.  A lesson that we have tried to model for our own children.  Losing your way provides for greater adventures.  After apologizing profusely for my lack of navigational skills they quickly reassured me that this was all part of the tour.  Unplanned detours and more steps walked equated to an unintended viewing of the Rathaus and gardens, the MQ and even a glimpse at Parliament.  They were grateful and I was reminded being flexible and forgiving are essential in life.  No matter the context.  We walked the Albertina, each heading our own direction.  Studying the art, making those faces and tilting our heads, you know, the museum stance as I like to call it.  A snack was in order to process all the art and take in more of the grandiose architecture so we made our way to the Palmen Haus and watched the sunset over Burrgarten Park.  It was lovely.  Then home for dinner and family games.  The table was filled with spaetzle, our family's version, vorgerl salat and olive bread.  We prayed, raised our glasses to toast our guests and ate until our plates were clean!  A rousing game of Bananagrams was played, or maybe three.  It has quickly become our new favorite!  Our guests granted Thing 4 a willing audience and he entertained us with his magic tricks and infectious humor.  His gift to bring people in is something to behold.  I went to bed with a grateful heart and filled with anticipation as to what day two would bring.

Magic show, courtesy of Thing 4!

Following our day of culture a nature day was requested.  Who am I to deny our guests of such an experience?  First, breakfast at Eiles.  A traditional Viennese cafe experience that is on my list of must do's while here.  Frühstuck by Tiffany was the table choice.  There were more beverages on the table than we knew what to do with! Prosecco, of course, coffee and hot chocolate and all the water.  Not to mention the lachs, truffle eggs and bread that rounded out our meal.  It is my favorite, hands down.  Yet another lesson confirmed at the table, there really isn't a bad time to enjoy bubbles!  A long ride on public transport up to the vineyards and then our hike began.  This was a trail I was not familiar with and so it was definitely a group effort in navigating.  The view at the top of the mountain was stunning, despite it being a bit hazy.  We made our way down, winding in and out of the woods, passing the vineyards and a few hidden houses.  Our hike ended in Nussdorf and then we chose the paved path along the water for a while on the way to the bus station.  Again, our time was filled with more conversing, sharing and laughing.  Another observation I made note of was the absence of social media and phone usage.  Both Callee and Hayley were present to the moment, pausing occasionally for a photo but all the while soaking in the environment surrounding.  A good reminder in not making sweeping statements about millennials and their obsession with technology.  The weather was beginning to turn on us but a book store stop was in order so off to Neubaugasse we went.  I had never visited Thalia before but I had been told that they carried English books so we all ventured inside and picked up the books, skimmed the pages, read the summaries and in the end left with nothing.  All was not lost though, time spent amongst words is never without reward.  An unanimous group decision was made to head home for tea and cookies.  A wise choice indeed.  I whipped up a batch of homemade chocolate chip cookies, we drank tea and transportation plans for the next leg of their trip were made while we regrouped from our nature filled afternoon.  Husband Jared and I would be remiss to have not allowed our guests to visit Figlmüller with us, our favorite traditional and family owned Viennese restaurant.  For the last twenty four hours we had been regaling them with stories of schnitzel bigger than your face, the atmosphere, the staff, and on and on until they had no choice but to oblige.  Really though, who could refuse?  Off we went.  Only there were no reservations available so we reluctantly stood in line at the second location.  I was unsure as to what to expect as I had never dined there before.  Unbeknownst to me it is just as cozy and inviting as the original locale.  And thanks to Callee's perseverance we were seated at a table within thirty minutes.  She also played host assistant, recruiting people for tables that had been outside standing in line and she managed to earn herself an aperitif from the host!  He was quite impressed with her skills.  Time at the table, wherever it is, feels sacred to me.   And this evening was just that.  Toasts made, experience and travel stories shared, new dishes tried and passed around and sweet happiness filled the atmosphere.  A good night and a perfect ending to a day spent well.

Vineyards in the fall.  

Hazy view from Kahlenberg.

Three happy faces!

Figlmüller.  Prost! 

Since our guests would be leaving us we shared one more meal together before they made their way to Bratislava and Budapest.  And with this yet another lesson was imparted.  Breaking bread together is one pathway to deeper understanding.  The age gap, life experiences and paths walked were vastly different between us all and yet when gathered around the table common ground was found, and it was beautiful.   We filled up on pancakes, I gave them a goodie bag for their travel day and we hugged.  The minute they left the apartment felt small and quiet again.  You better believe I texted them immediately and told them to come back.  Do you know how they responded?  "How about you come to Hungary?".  What the what?  An invitation to spend one more day with them and see a new country, yes please, but before making a decision, I slept on the idea.  When I woke up I asked Husband Jared to help me weigh out the pros and cons.  There were no cons, with the exception of not having a night with him alone since Thing 4 was in Paris.  Husband Jared encouraged me to take of advantage of the opportunity at hand and be spontaneous.  With that, he booked my bus ticket and off I went for twenty four hours in Budapest.  And here, another lesson: saying yes isn't always as difficult as I think it might be.  Duh.

The day was sublime, other than forgetting my bathing suit and having to forgo the field trip to the thermal baths.  We lunched at Mazel Tov, which I highly recommend.  Everything from the epic light fixture in the center of the restaurant to the hanging pathos plants and rustic brick walls, it was all eye candy.  Of course the food was full of flavor and provided everything you could  hope for in a hummus plate!  When my traveling companions went to bathe with strangers I wandered around the city on my own.  The Danube river divides the city into two sides, Buda and Pest.  On the Buda side is Buda Castle, St. Matthias Cathedral and the castle district.  Windy roads, paved with cobblestones and breathtaking views had me pausing every 100 meters to take a photo.  As I was making my way back to Pest, I stumbled upon a parade celebrating Hungary's independence.  Seeing the people carrying torches, some singing, others dressed in traditional clothing, and all boasting national pride was rather humbling.  I carried on across the Chain Bridge and to Parliament, through the Jewish quarter with a stop at a controversial memorial, then on to the apartment to meet up with my travel buddies.  Our decision making process was entertaining to say the least.  With a list of dinner options we narrowed it down to two, one was closed and the other was full, as in no reservations and no waiting for a table.  Thankfully the night before Callee and Hayley had discovered a food truck "park" that had local offerings.  The decision was made, the menu chosen;  Langosh, goulash and sauerkraut stew in bread bowls, a few local beers and we were set.  I was rather impressed with the concept of this place.  Sandwiched between Ruin Bars was a converted alleyway, filled with decorative rocks, picnic tables, pallet bar tables and food trailers, complete with twinkly lights hanging above.  Atmosphere: check.  Good, local fare: check.  Delightful company: check.  We dined al fresco and then ventured into the Ruin Bar.  These Ruin bars have quite the history.  Scattered throughout the city are buildings that suffered damage in WWII.  Rather than condemning them and starting from scratch they were converted into art exhibitions with a bar.  The bar aspect really is an after thought.  Every room we entered hosted its own theme and was filled, floor to ceiling, with varying art forms, sculptures, photography, paintings, statues, recycled objects, etc.  As an added bonus there was even live music and a garden.  I mean come on!  While I was up way past my bedtime, I am so thankful I didn't miss experiencing this side of the city.  We walked home and I continued taking in the city.  There are always multiple personalities to each and every city I have traveled to and I think that is most notable from day time to the evening.  Once back at the AirBnb, we all settled in with happy pants and a little small talk before heading to bed.  Morning came and the bus schedule forced us into walking to an early breakfast.  Again, the decision making process came down to the tallest person having the final say.  Thank you Hayley!  Another gem, clearly favored by locals and tourists alike, was chosen and following more thoughtful questions and learning, on my part, we parted ways.  Hugs and "see you laters" shared.  Callee and Hayley continued on in Budapest and this sojourner made her way to the bus stop filled up with joy.


Mazel Tov.

Parade.  

Night time sightings.

Buda. Pest.

Parliament.

Dinner.

Ruin Bar.

I have so many words about this and yet none of them would do justice to the gifts I was given by these two counter cultural young women.  Bearing witness to a friendship that has spanned almost a decade, grown into accountability and a calling out of the best in each other gave me hope.  And also a charge to continue praying for that kind of friendship for our daughters.  Where each person is championed and celebrated.  Free from competition and spurred on by the love of the other.  A friendship like this is special and always worth the investment.  It was at the root of the lessons I learned from Callee and Hayley and our time together.  They became dear daughters to me and I am ever so grateful for their thoughtfulness, their questions, the encouragement they gave me and all the memories we made.


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